![]() If I have to replace the starter, I will need to buy a ratchet with a more compact head or use a combination of a swivel and extensions to access it. ![]() I did not remove the starter because I couldn't remove one of the bolts holding it in place due to the size of the head of my ratchet. It may be easier to route the cable if you remove the starter. Look at the routing of the cable as you remove it, and you will see how to do it. The cable has to fit between the starter and the engine block or the cable end will block the reinstallation of the supercharger dampener. (If anyone else ever needs to do this, here's a link to the the instructions: Starter Replacement - M271 ) There are also videos on YouTube. I installed the new battery/starter/alternator cable. I've also posted photos showing the data connector and the battery connector to the alternator and the voltage regulator that I removed. Screen display during alternator test attempt It is possible to switch over between the systems with the key combinations ALT + TAB." I'm not sure whether doing that will allow the test to run, but I will give it a try later. If you pause it at about the half-way point you should see a message that says, "DAS and WIS are active at the same time. It may be a Chinese clone.) I've posted a video showing what happens when I attempt to use the alternator diagnosis menu. (Jake and I bought the system used and I don't know much about its origins. When I ran the STAR system, there were menu choices for alternator testing, but they would not run on my system. I connected the STAR system and it read the same fault code I posted previously - 2062-002 - Alternator serial interface. I checked the voltage at the alternator with the car running and it was negligible - approximately 0.4 volts. I replaced it, but it did not fix the problem. Since my last update I decided to take a chance and see whether the voltage regulator was damaged. I'm not quite ready to buy an oscilloscope, but I'm beginning to think it may be necessary.
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